Thomas Farge “Les Jardins de Chavagnac” Blanc
IGP Collines Rhodaniennes, France | 2020
The vineyards of the Northern Rhône are, like me, pretty dramatic! These steep, terraced slopes are carved into granite hillsides that seem borderline impossible to farm and aren’t sites that would ever be planted by modern logic, yet thanks to a tradition dating back to the ancient Romans, this anxiety-inducing viticulture has endured here for centuries. Domaine Farge’s roughly 20 hectares span the classic appellations of Saint-Joseph, Cornas, Saint-Péray, and Condrieu, with a small slice dedicated to this month’s bottling from the Collines Rhodaniennes. Arguably the most exciting part of their lineup, this IGP designation gives Thomas the freedom to step outside the rules, let his hair down, and lean into a future-forward way of thinking about this region.
The estate’s roots trace back to the 1920s, operating as a cooperative for decades, even after Thomas’s father Guy took over in 1980 until he began estate bottling in 2007. When Thomas joined in 2018, the domaine entered a new era: expanding vineyard holdings, converting to organic/biodynamic farming, and shifting toward a more transparent, minimal-intervention approach. With native fermentations, concrete vessels, and larger neutral barrels now in play, and inspiration drawn from modern Northern Rhône icons like Maxime Graillot and Yves Gangloff, Thomas has quickly positioned the estate among the most exciting producers in the region.
“Les Jardins de Chavagnac” is a blend of 40% Viognier, 60% Marsanne/Roussanne from vines averaging around 50 years old and aged for over 18 months to build depth and texture. After spending a few years aging in bottle, the wine has a gently unctuous, enveloping mouthfeel layered with white flowers, almond paste, orange zest, and a touch of juicy Bosque pear. The natural Rhône generosity is kept in check by a clean, mineral backbone that keeps everything lifted and precise. A stunning expression of Northern Rhône whites, and one that would be great alongside seared halibut, shrimp ceviche, or a Spring onion tart.