Clos de la Barthassade "Cuvee H"
Coteaux du Languedoc, france | 2022
In the summer of 2015, I had the privilege of being a plus-one at a mesmerizing wedding in the south of France, hosted at a beautiful château nestled within the Languedoc wine region in the ancient medieval village Puissalicon. While I must confess to being an excellent wedding companion (particularly in the enchanting ambiance of a French château) my excitement stemmed from the opportunity to immerse myself in the wine region firsthand and return with a chorus of praises. Every 15€ liter of locally-crafted table wine at the quaint cafés and eateries we visited left an indelible impression, making the idea of returning to the U.S. a challenging one!
The sprawling and diverse Languedoc-Roussillon wine region is known for its array of large-scale, bulk-production wines. However, amidst the vast expanse, there are hidden gems that elevate the region to extraordinary heights. One such gem is the husband-wife duo, Guillame and Hélène Baron, founders of Clos de la Barthassade located just west of Montpelier. In less than a decade, they've emerged as prominent figures in small-production and biodynamic farming, venturing off the beaten winemaking path and garnering acclaim in the wine world.
The meticulous harvest and vinification process of their Cuvée H exemplify their dedication to the art of winemaking. Gravity-fed tanks guide every step with all of their wines ensuring a gentle touch from vine to bottle. Temperature-controlled fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks with 50% whole cluster inclusion, native yeast fermentation, and minimal pump-over and punch-down for an even gentler extraction – all of which are virtually unheard of in this region. Following this meticulous press, the wine ages for ten months in a mix of 80% stainless steel tanks and 20% in neutral French barriques. Notably, sulfur dioxide is introduced only after malolactic fermentation, and minimal additions take place at bottling.
Comprised of 70% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and 15% Grenache, the Cuvée H blend focuses on the dark-fruited and gamey Syrah varietal. While Barthassade wines have drawn comparisons to the robust style of Northern Rhône’s Côte-Rôtie, the inclusion of aromatic Mourvèdre and red-fruited Grenache firmly places it in Southern France. The palate unfolds with unique notes of dark cocoa powder, wet soil, black pepper, and sweet pipe smoke. These intricate flavors harmonize with a rich, almost chewy texture, offering an extended finish that beckons the use of a crockpot for slow-cooked chili or lamb kefta.