Avancia “Nobleza” Mencìa
bierzo, spain | 2021
Many readers may not be well-acquainted with the native Spanish varietal Mencía as it has notoriously remained a sleeper in comparison to Spain’s more recognizable grapes. As wine professionals, it has always required nudges from our community to introduce it to our more curious and explorative customers. Once believed to be linked to France’s Cabernet Franc, it has now been identified as a relative of Portugal's Jaen, gradually emerging as a world-class Spanish grape capable of producing age-worthy and breathtakingly complex wines.
Nestled in the far northwestern reaches of Spain within the Valdeorras DO of Galicia, Mencía thrives alongside its white counterpart Godello in this region that got its name from the gold once mined in the area (val-de-oras = valley of gold). Much like Pinot Noir, Mencía is a finicky grape demanding extraordinary care from vine to winery to unlock its incredible potential. Renowned Priorat winemaker Alvaro Palacios played a pivotal role in putting Mencía on the map by revitalizing old vines and bestowing upon the grape the attention it deserves. Many prolific winemakers have taken note and are now finally following suit!
Bodegas Avancia is a highly regarded Valdeorras winery taking on the challenge of shining a light on its gnarly old-vine Mencía and Godello vines. Its tiny 9-hectare estate is perched upon frightfully dizzying slopes overlooking the Sil River disallowing any kind of machinery during harvest. The Nobleza cuvée we’re offering this month not only showcases the powerful potential of Mencía consisting of 90% of the blend, but also tips its hat to the region’s other local varietals: Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón, Gran Negro, Sousón, and Cariñena. Rooted in the historic Aeiroá vineyard with vines dating back to 1948 and 1963, Avancia’s fruit flourishes under traditional dry-farmed viticulture adhering to organic practices that eschew chemically synthesized elements. The predominantly slate soils intertwined with traces of quartz contribute distinctive characteristics to the wines, providing lifted etheral aromatics and intense minerality.
The winemaking process of Nobleza is a delicate balance incorporating various techniques specific to the winery. Hand-harvested grapes are sorted on site followed by pre-fermentative maceration and fermentation in neutral French barrels; however, a nuanced approach is taken with 1/3 of the production which undergoes whole-cluster fermentation enhancing the wine's overall complexity. The juice is then transferred into neutral French barriques where it undergoes full malolactic fermentation and rests for 18 months before bottling. A final touch involves four additional months of bottle aging before release. Pair this beauty with dishes incorporating Cajun spices, or with a lighter fare of grilled tomatoes and walnut pesto!