Vins Lelièvre “Gris Pique-Nique”
LORRAINE, FRANCE | NV
I have a deep connection to this wine for many reasons, but one especially meaningful one is personal: the region where it’s made shares a name with my mother, who was the reason I fell in love with wine in the first place. This makes the selection bittersweet in the best way. Domaine Lelièvre is located in the Côtes de Toul, a small and historic region in Lorraine, perched along the Moselle River in northeastern France. My mother was lovingly called “Lolo” by all of the younger generations in our family who couldn’t yet pronounce her name, so I affectionately still think of this region as that.
Lelièvres vin gris is a pale, almost white rosé made from Gamay and Pinot Noir, and it’s absolutely feather-light and fresh. Aromas of redcurrant, white strawberries, and citrus peel leap from the glass, while the palate is dry, crisp, and bright, with flavors of pink grapefruit and a stony mineral backbone shaped by the region’s Jurassic clay-limestone soils.
Lorraine’s identity has long been shaped by the ebb and flow of European power. Historically part of the Roman Empire, then caught between French and German rule for centuries, the region has endured repeated cultural and territorial upheaval. This shifting national identity has created a distinctly Franco-Germanic heritage, present in the language, cuisine, and especially in the wine. Though the vinification is classically French, the presence of Germanic slate combined with the region’s cooler climate lends a precision and minerality to the wine that echoes its German neighbors along the Mosel (yes, the same river as the Moselle just spelled differently).
“Gris Pique-Nique” is a non-vintage cuvée blending fresh wines from young vines with reserve wines held back from previous harvests. This careful blending tempers vintage variation and adds complexity, while also helping the domaine hedge against climate risks like spring frost and hail. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel, the wine stays sleek and focused. Its mechanical closure makes it especially easy to open anywhere you happen to be! Beach day or an actual picnic, anyone?
Joyful, unpretentious, and laced with cultural and personal depth, this bottle is a reminder that the most rewarding wines often come from the margins. Pair it with grilled trout, soft funky cheeses, or nothing but a smile on your face.