CAHORS, FRANCE | 2022
If you still associate Malbec primarily with the rich, powerful, fruit-forward wines of Argentina, I think this month's selection will be a particularly exciting discovery! Long before Malbec became synonymous with Mendoza, the grape had established itself in southwestern France, particularly in the historic region of Cahors along the Lot River. Dating back to Roman times, Cahors became famous for its deeply colored, intensely structured wines, historically referred to as the "black wines" of the region. Today, however, a new generation of winemakers is demonstrating that Cahors can produce wines of remarkable finesse and elegance, and Valérie Courrèges is one of the most exciting producers leading that movement. An accomplished enologist who spent years working in Provence, as well as gaining experience in California and Chile, Valérie established her own estate in Cahors in 2019, acquiring approximately 22 hectares of vineyards planted on exceptional limestone and clay soils. Her philosophy emphasizes organic and biodynamic farming, minimal intervention, and producing wines that celebrate freshness and elegance rather than sheer power.
The name Ocrement-Dit is a clever play on the French expression autrement dit, meaning "in other words," while incorporating ocre, the French word for ochre, referencing the reddish clay soils of the vineyard. The wine comes from 40- to 50-year-old vines planted on an elevated limestone plateau near the village of Sauzet, where red clay rests above ancient Jurassic limestone bedrock. In the cellar, Valérie takes a remarkably gentle approach, fermenting with indigenous yeasts and aging the wine for approximately twelve months in concrete vessels and sandstone jars rather than new oak. This allows the fruit and distinctive vineyard character to shine without the influence of oak-derived flavors. The resulting 2022 is a beautifully refined expression of Malbec, offering aromas of ripe blackberries, dark cherries, violets, and licorice, accompanied by subtle earthy and savory notes. Also, the label is super cool - so there’s that.
For Thanksgiving, I think this wine offers a wonderful alternative to the more traditional Beaujolais that so often find their way onto the holiday table. Unlike heavier, more extracted styles of Malbec, Valérie's interpretation has the freshness and restrained tannins to complement rather than overwhelm the meal. Its dark cherry and blackberry character pairs beautifully with roasted turkey, particularly the richer dark meat, while its earthy, savory undertones are a natural match for mushroom stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, and dishes featuring sage, thyme, and rosemary. I especially love how the wine's fruit plays against the tart sweetness of cranberry sauce, creating a lovely contrast. Give it about 30 minutes in a decanter before serving to allow those beautiful aromatics to open up.