Magoutes “Vieilles Vignes Blanc”
Siatista, Greece | 2025
The Diamantis winery sits in the rugged, mountainous hinterland of northwestern Macedonia. Its high elevation and inland isolation create a cool climate with none of the maritime influence that softens much of Greece. Here lies Siatista, a town whose history with vines dates back to at least 1670. However, because records have been lost or destroyed by revolutions, wars, and conflagrations, the complete viticultural history of the area remains somewhat obscured.
In this windswept, arid landscape, anchored by impressively rocky limestone soils, the story of Diamantis Winery begins in the early 20th century. Dimitris Diamantis’s grandfather, one of Siatista’s leading grape growers, hand grafted what is now the domaine’s century old vineyard on the family land. As grape growing became less profitable, most of the region’s vineyards disappeared, and by the 1970s only a few old vines remained. In the early 1990s, Dimitris began working to preserve the surviving varieties, eventually saving enough genetic material to replant 18 hectares on the slopes of the Magoutes area, between 750 and 890 meters above sea level. This work has been carried forward with equal energy and conviction by his business partner, George Papageorgiou, whose family also comes from Siatista. Together, the two families are working to revive the region’s viticultural heritage and demonstrate its potential to produce unique wines.
The Magoutes Vineyard “Vieilles Vignes” white is made entirely from Xinomavro grown on limestone and clay soils. While a still blanc de noirs is unusual, this wine calls to mind an exceptionally pure young Chablis. Citrus and stone fruit surround a firm core of minerality, while the palate is lean, taut, and built to evolve. Drink it now with oysters, but put a few bottles aside to see how it develops over the coming years.