Eguíluz "Las Prefiradas" Tinto
Rioja Alavesa, Spain | 2023
This past March, I had the pleasure of returning to Rioja, where I visited several wineries of varying size and notoriety. I was particularly excited to visit a group of producers whose wines were going to be represented in the Chicago market for the first time. Among them was Bodegas Eguíluz, where I met with Israel Eguíluz, recently named “Young Winemaker of the Year” by Master of Wine Tim Atkin.
Bodegas Eguíluz is a small, grower-owned Rioja estate located in the village of Ábalos, in the Rioja Alta subregion. It was established in 1982 as a traditional cosechero, producing only wines made through carbonic maceration. Eventually, Javier Eguíluz took over the business from his brothers, and today, with his son Israel serving as head winemaker, the family farms 22 hectares and produces around 120,000 bottles annually. Fourteen of those hectares are in their home village of Ábalos, with the remaining eight hectares located in nearby Labastida. The vines were planted between 1941 and 2007, with the majority dating to the 1970s and 1980s.
“Las Preferidas” Tinto is made from 90% Tempranillo, with the remaining 10% made up of Viura, Garnacha and Calagraño, a traditional Rioja mix that gives the wine both freshness and aromatic lift. The fruit comes from a selection of their best vineyards in Ábalos and Labastida, planted near the Sierra at 550 to 650 meters above sea level. These higher-elevation sites, with their Atlantic influence, poor clay-limestone soils, and cooler growing conditions, help preserve the freshness that defines the wine.
In the cellar, the family works with a very light hand. The wine is fermented in open concrete lagares, with gravity filling, whole clusters, and traditional foot treading, all in the service of a softer, gentler extraction. Malolactic fermentation takes place in concrete, followed by nine months of aging in French oak barrels. The result is a Rioja that feels both rooted in tradition and full of energy, red-fruited, fresh, expressive, and beautifully drinkable, with round tannins and enough savory depth to keep you coming back to the glass. A perfect pairing for grilled lamb chops or a grilled rib-eye.