Domaine Clusel-Roch "Les Traboules"
Coteaux du Lyonnais, 2021
$17/glassHow often do you get to say that you drank a Gamay from Northern Rhône? Not often, and this is why this wine stands out against what many assume would only be red wines made from Syrah. Whereas Gamay from its neighboring Beaujolais appellation has a distinct and fruity characteristic that made the region famous, this style is strikingly different with its focus on more herbaceous and smoky qualities that are indicative of the wines from the Northern Rhône.
Nestled in the breathtaking hills of Côte Rôtie, Domaine Clusel-Roch stands out against the dramatic, cliff-like granite landscapes that look like they erupted straight from the earth’s core. These hills, impossibly beautiful and challenging to cultivate, are home to Gilbert Clusel, his wife Brigit, and their son Guillaume, who run a quaint 3.5-hectare vineyard in the northernmost village of Verenay. The winery's roots go deep, all the way back to 1935, when Gilbert's grandfather planted 'Les Grandes-Places' with serine, a rare, low-yielding Syrah clone. While the rest of the region shifted to higher-yielding varieties, the Clusel family remained devoted to their unique vines and embraced biodynamic farming, pioneering the movement in the area by 1990. The "Les Traboules" vineyard boasts a unique terroir near the Rhône River. Unlike the steep slopes of Côte Rôtie, this vineyard enjoys a relatively flat terrain with southeast-facing slopes bathed in sunlight. The warm, sandy soil peppered with glacial moraine pebbles creates an ideal environment for Gamay grapes. Cultivated organically and certified by ECOCERT, the vineyard sees meticulous hand-harvesting and sorting, ensuring each grape reaches its full potential. The winemaking process is a labor of love, featuring partial destemming, indigenous yeast fermentation, and aging in stainless steel tanks, producing a wine that's pure, vibrant, and alive. Guillaume Clusel, who took the reins in 2021, continues his family's legacy with unwavering dedication. Partnered with his childhood friend Gaëlle Bonnefond, who joined the domaine in 2017, Guillaume is a steadfast advocate for organic farming and minimal intervention. The Clusel-Roch wines have earned a reputation for their elegance and complexity, rivaling the finest Pinot Noirs of Burgundy. With an annual production of 26,000 bottles, "Les Traboules" is a fantastic example of Clusel family's passion, tradition, and commitment to creating extraordinary wines in the heart of Rhône.
|
